I'm in the process of lining everything up to construct my ICF basement for my new home.
I'm using Fox Blocks and planning to use 18 guauge metal studs approx. every 6 foot or so for the upright straighteners. Connected to them I using some wall bracing turnbuckels. we use to use to brace and straighten 2x framed walls.  I'm planning on installing truss wire to help keep the wall straight aswell. Wall is 8' 4" (with the 4"height adjusters). Anyone use the metal studs like this? I figure I can reuse the metal studs for other projects. Studs will cost me just under $300, everything else I have. Any suggestions, or hints are appreciated.
md

Just make sure that you make slots in the studs for your attachment screws to go in. And install the screws at the top of the slots. This will allow the blocks to settle when the concrete is poured. This is basically the same way I have always braced ICF walls, except I use wood 2x's.

I would put your bracing closer than that. Snug but do not tighten your strongback screws, do not use tapered screw, like drywall screws, they need to be able to slide in the slots. Put some of your strongbacks horizontal at the top of the wall, they work much better than the in-wall, dura wall stuff.

The local LiteForm ICF distributer and construction company Sherwood Engineering uses the light gauge metal studs for bracing. Look at the LiteForm installation manual online for details regarding use of metal studs for ICF wall bracing. The LiteForm manual shows the use of tie wire to attach the metal studs to the ICF ties. This allows a small amount of vertical movement in the ICF during the pour without disturbing the wall alignment. The manual also shows ways to attach your kicker brace and walk board to the metal studs including LiteForm's plastic molded bracket.

Arkie is right . This is the way we braced when I started using icfs back in 1989. Don't use tie wire though, it's too flimsey. Use galvanized fence wire, it's 1400 lb test . I still use the stuff on ocasion. A 1/4 mile roll is about $20 at Tractor Supply if you have one nearby. Along with duct tape and visegrips indispesible.

I used the term "tie wire" generically and didn't mean to imply the flimsy wire used for tying rebar. We use #9 tie wire on a quite a few jobs at work, but I wouldn't use it here because it is way too stiff. I think the LiteForm manual specifies a 16ga wire. I have a roll of the Red Brand high tensile galv electric fence wire in the shop. That stuff is very strong and would probably work very well for tying the ICFs to the vertical bracing.

Folks -- why not use steel bracing and turnbuckles and forget the tie wire? Regards.

For DIY types like myself building one home, it doesn't make a lot of sense to purchase all of that equipment that we would have no use for once the job is done. The steel studs and/or wood 2x4 bracing can be used inside the home once the walls are poured. With that being said, the company I'm buying my ICFs from still uses the steel studs and Liteform molded nylon brackets for bracing. They may also use the turnbuckles that attach to the 2x4 kickers - I don't remember if those were used on the jobs I watched or not.

Rent good quality "lean-to" ICF braces from United Rentals or any other construction rental yard. You're going to be living in that house. Why fool around and take a chance of screwing it up in order to save a couple of hundred bucks? Makes no sense.

I'm with Bruce as you know from my previous post. I'm still curious though - are you using the tie wire because you don't trust the furring strips? Regards.

16 ga wire is what the LiteForm ICF installation manual recommends for attaching the ICF ties to the vertical wall bracing, which is the light gauge metal studs as previously mentioned.

I've watched several basement pours using the LiteForm ICF and steel stud bracing. I didn't see any problems with this setup. The walls didn't move during the pour and they were straight and plumb when done. The guys stacking and pouring these walls have been doing it this way for over 10 years.

I live near a relatively small town (<20,000 population) and ICf construction isn't that prevalent around here, so I doubt that anyone nearby is going to have ICF bracing for rent. Besides, I'm doing this during my free time on the weekends and it will probably take me two weeks to a month to get the walls stacked and ready to pour. I haven't even considered renting bracing as I like to work at my own pace without worrying about equipment rental costs racking up.

I'm in the same boat as Arkie6, as far as closer to a DIY'er than a wall contractor. Buying the bracing isn't an option.
I've been arouond concrete enough that before the pump truck shows up I'll have things more over braced than not enough.

I'm planning on "slotting" and screwing my vertical's as discussed earlier. Since I have turnbuckles to use, I think for me its a no brainer to spend my money on the metal studs (that I can use again) versus renting. 

 As long as my lumber is straight, I also plan on using 16' 2x4's on edge with some 1/2" or 3/4" plywood strips along the top edge to help straighten, brace, and keep from spreading. 

Hopefully once the rain stops here I will start digging and have photos of my project as it progresses.
md

The following are some pages from the LiteForm installation manual showing the bracing I have described above.

Another page from the manual:

Another page:

Last one (had to convert pdf to a jpg due to forum file size limits):